Weft Knitting Fabric: Specs, Structures & Factory Pricing Guide

Why "Soft and Skin-Friendly" Cannot Be Compared: From Adjectives to Verifiable Parameters

When buyers search for weft knitting fabric, the first responses they usually receive are adjectives: soft, breathable, skin-friendly, premium hand feel. These words cannot be compared across suppliers, and they cannot be converted into a cost sheet. Two mills can both describe a fabric as "soft 180gsm single jersey" while delivering completely different yarn counts, different GSM tolerances, and different shrinkage behavior after washing. The result is a bulk order that feels nothing like the approved sample.

The real cost of a weft knit fabric is determined by four measurable inputs: yarn specification, GSM with its tolerance band, knitting structure, and finishing route. Every quotation that omits these four items is an estimate, not a price. This guide converts the sourcing conversation from adjectives into numbers, so that purchasing managers, product developers, and sourcing agents can compare offers on the same basis.

A typical circular knitting operation running 38 years with 150,000 meters of daily capacity can support small-batch custom colors, but that capacity only becomes useful to a buyer when the specification sheet is precise enough to be reproduced. The sections below provide the parameter table, the structure-by-end-use matching logic, the three hidden cost variables, and the compliance documentation checklist that together form a complete RFQ package.

Conversion note: A real-time price request is only meaningful when the inquiry includes composition, GSM, structure, width, color, and monthly volume. Inquiries with these six fields typically receive a usable quotation within one business day, while inquiries missing GSM and structure usually require two to three rounds of clarification.

Weft Knitted Fabric Specification Table: The Parameters That Must Be Verified

A specification table is not a marketing document. It is the contract basis for sampling, bulk production, and dispute resolution. The table below lists the standard ranges and, more importantly, the verification point a buyer should confirm before issuing a purchase order.

Parameter	Standard Range	Buyer Verification Point
Composition	100% Polyester / CVC / TC / 95% Cotton 5% Spandex	Percentage splits directly affect price and hand feel; confirm the exact ratio, not just the fiber name
Weight (GSM)	180 to 360 GSM, tolerance plus or minus 5%	Always ask for the tolerance band; without it, bulk hand feel drifts from the sample
Width	160 cm usable	Distinguish total width from usable width to avoid cutting-bed waste
Structure	Single Jersey / 1x1 Rib / Interlock / French Terry	Structure determines stretch recovery and end use; it is not interchangeable
Shrinkage	3% or less, warp and weft, depending on finishing	Shrinkage figures without a stated test method are not valid data
Color fastness	Grade 4 or above for washing, Grade 4 for rubbing	Request the test method reference alongside the grade
Pilling resistance	Grade 3 to 4 for brushed fabrics	Brushed and fleece structures need separate pilling data from jersey

How to Read the Tolerance Band

A 5% tolerance on 180 GSM means the acceptable delivery window is 171 to 189 GSM. That 18 GSM spread is enough to change the drape of a lightweight T-shirt and enough to change the yield calculation on a cutting table. Buyers who accept a quoted "180 GSM" without a tolerance band are accepting an undefined range. The same logic applies to width: a 160 cm usable width is not the same as a 160 cm total width, and the difference can be 5 to 8 cm of edge trim that never reaches the cutting table.

Structure Comparison at a Glance

Single jersey and interlock are frequently confused because both appear smooth on the face. The difference is the second needle bed: interlock knits two interlocking layers, which reduces curling, increases weight for the same yarn count, and gives a more stable surface for printing. Jersey is lighter, curls at the edges, and stretches more in the width direction. A buyer specifying "jersey" when the garment requires dimensional stability will discover the error only after cutting.

Matching Structure to End Use: The Long-Tail Buying Scenarios

Purchasing managers often search by end product rather than by structure name. The three configurations below cover the majority of inquiries and provide a starting point for specification.

T-Shirts and Lightweight Tops

Structure: Single Jersey
Weight: 180 to 220 GSM
Composition: 100% combed cotton, or polyester-cotton blend for cost control
Verification focus: GSM tolerance, shrinkage after three washes, and surface evenness for printing

Hoodies, Sweatpants and Heavyweight Leisurewear

Structure: French Terry or Fleece
Weight: 280 to 360 GSM
Back side: brushed or looped, depending on warmth target
Verification focus: pilling grade after brushing, shrinkage, and width stability during cutting

Collars, Cuffs and Compression Garments

Structure: 1x1 Rib or 2x2 Rib
Composition: must include elastane to guarantee recovery
Verification focus: recovery percentage after repeated extension, not just initial stretch

When the structure is uncertain, the most economical path is to send a garment photo or a target GSM and composition to the mill's engineering team. A recommendation based on the finished garment's stretch and weight requirements usually avoids one full sampling round, which is the single largest time cost in the development cycle.

Three Hidden Variables That Explain Why Prices Differ

Price opacity is a common reason inquiries stall. When two quotations differ by 20%, the difference is almost always located in one of the three variables below, and each can be quantified before the order is placed.

Variable 1: Yarn Cost

Yarn Option	Relative Cost	Effect on Fabric
Combed cotton	Higher	Cleaner surface, fewer neps, better for light colors
Carded cotton	Lower	More neps, acceptable for dark colors and brushed backs
Virgin polyester	Baseline	Consistent dye uptake, predictable shrinkage
Recycled polyester	Premium	Requires GRS documentation; color consistency needs tighter control

Variable 2: Finishing Route

Standard wash: lowest cost, basic hand feel
Reactive printing: adds color complexity and requires more water and energy
Moisture-wicking functional finish: adds a chemical step and requires performance testing
Brushing or sueding: adds surface texture but increases pilling risk, so testing cost rises

Variable 3: Minimum Order Quantity

MOQ is a filter, not a limitation. A stated MOQ of 500 kg per color signals that the mill is set up for bulk dyeing, while a policy allowing one roll from stock colors signals readiness for urgent small orders. Both policies can coexist. Buyers should ask which colors are held in stock and which require dyeing, because the lead time difference between the two routes is often larger than the price difference.

Practical rule: Request the quotation broken down into yarn, knitting, dyeing, finishing, and testing lines. A supplier who can itemize these five lines can also explain a price change when the yarn market moves, which protects both sides from renegotiation.

Quality Credentials and Compliance Documents: What to Request

Certificate icons on a website are not evidence. Buyers should request the document number, the scope, and the validity period, and should confirm that the certificate covers the specific fiber and process being purchased.

Oeko-Tex Standard 100: request the certificate number and confirm the product class matches the end use, especially for children's wear
GRS: confirm the scope covers the recycled polyester series specifically, not the whole product range
Color fastness, shrinkage, and pilling reports: request copies to be sent with the sample, not after the order

Sending test reports with the sample is a low-cost action with a high conversion effect. It shortens the buyer's internal approval process because the quality team receives the data at the same time as the physical sample, rather than requesting it in a second round.

How to Build an RFQ That Receives a Usable Quote in 24 Hours

The quality of the quotation depends on the quality of the inquiry. The checklist below is the minimum data set for a price that can be compared with other suppliers.

Composition with exact percentages
GSM with acceptable tolerance
Structure name, or a garment photo if the structure is unknown
Usable width requirement
Color reference, and whether stock color or custom dyeing is acceptable
Monthly volume and first-order volume
Target market and any mandatory certification
Destination port, so freight can be included

Inquiries containing all eight fields can usually be quoted with freight included in one business day. Inquiries missing GSM, structure, or volume require clarification, and each clarification round adds roughly one day to the response time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: What is the difference between weft knit and warp knit?

Weft knit forms loops horizontally, row by row, as in circular-knit jersey, which gives good stretch and recovery. Warp knit forms loops vertically from a warp beam, as in tricot, which gives dimensional stability and a denser structure. Circular weft knitting is the appropriate route for T-shirts, hoodies, ribs, and interlock fabrics.

Q2: Can samples be sent before a bulk order?

Yes. A4-sized color cards are typically free with freight collected, while meter samples are charged and the sample fee is usually credited against the bulk order. Test reports for color fastness, shrinkage, and pilling can be sent together with the sample.

Q3: What is the lead time for one ton?

Greige fabric is typically ready in three to five days. Dyed fabric takes fifteen to twenty days depending on color depth, because dark shades require longer dyeing cycles and more washing steps. Stock colors ship faster than custom shades.

Q4: How should GSM tolerance be specified in a purchase order?

State the nominal GSM and the acceptable band, for example 180 GSM plus or minus 5%. Also state the test method and the conditioning standard, because GSM measured on unconditioned fabric can differ from the lab result by several percent.

Q5: Why do shrinkage figures differ between suppliers for the same structure?

Shrinkage depends on the finishing route, the yarn twist, and the relaxation process, not only on the knitting structure. A supplier reporting 3% shrinkage should also state the number of wash cycles and the test standard, otherwise the figure cannot be compared.

Q6: Is recycled polyester available across all structures?

Availability depends on the yarn count required. Fine-count recycled polyester for lightweight jersey is more widely stocked than coarse counts for heavy fleece. Buyers should confirm the GRS scope for the specific structure and weight before specifying it in the purchase order.

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What Specs Actually Determine Weft Knitting Fabric Cost and Performance?